Posts

Posted on

Road tripping: Cederberg, Richtersveld & West Coast : Part 4

Links here to Part 1 , Part 2 and Part 3 or our trip.

We departed the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park via Helskloof Pass. Although not particularly technical, the pass proved to be hard driving, largely because of the poor condition of the road surface. Turning south, we chose the route via Lekkersing, which was generally in good condition, apart from a short stretch near Lekkersing that was badly corrugated. Along the way, I was pleased to have another opportunity to indulge my fascination with the ruins that punctuate this remote landscape.

By the time we reached our campsite at Modderfontein, just outside Springbok, we were thoroughly exhausted and had little energy left to explore the local attractions. We had also been forewarned that the wildflower season was particularly poor this year, so there seemed little reason to venture further afield.

The following morning, we said goodbye to our friends, who had travelled with us up to this point, and continued south towards Kraalbaai in the West Coast National Park, hoping that we might still find a few flowers in bloom. Late that afternoon, we boarded our houseboat under beautiful sunny skies. It was a very different story the following morning, however, when we awoke to find ourselves completely enveloped in thick fog.

Without the warmth of the sun, the few flowers we encountered in the Park remained tightly closed, refusing to show us their faces.

Nonetheless, we thoroughly enjoyed our time on the houseboat at Kraalbaai, and, despite the less-than-ideal weather, I at least managed to fit in two swimming sessions.

Rather than taking the direct route home, we made a long detour along the Karoo Highland Route, passing through Nieuwoudtville, Calvinia and Williston, and spending a night in Oudam Cottage at Konka Guest Farm outside Carnarvon. The detour was partly to explore an area that was new to us and partly to avoid having to make a separate trip to Douglas to collect a Border Collie puppy. Our brief introduction to this fascinating region has certainly left us wanting to return and explore it in greater detail.

After collecting our new puppy, Fudge, we finally turned for home, spending a pleasant last night of our journey at Sweetfontein Farm Lodge outside Britstown.

Ironically, the Karoo surprised us with more flowers than we had seen anywhere in Namaqualand or along the West Coast.

And so, after 16 days and 4,675 km, our journey finally came to an end. It had been a trip of contrasts, shared with good companions, and we returned home with a wealth of memories, photographs and stories to tell.

Posted on

Road tripping: Cederberg, Richtersveld & West Coast : Part 3

Link to Part 1

Link to Part 2

From Hondeklipbaai, we proceeded north via Koingnaas, Kleinsee and Port Nolloth, to Sendelingsdrift, on the South African side of the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. This is harsh yet remarkably beautiful landscape, with a mixture of some good and some really bad gravel roads and a few sections of surprisingly good tar road.

After our first night in the Richtersveld, spent camping at Potjiespram, where goats and monkeys shared our campsite, we set off for Kokerboomkloof. The journey took us through some of the most spectacular desert scenery, with the stark and rugged landscape unfolding around us as we made our way to the campsite.

I had been looking forward to the opportunity to do some landscape astrophotography at Kokerboomkloof for a long time, so I was understandably disappointed to arrive to heavily overcast skies. Fortunately, as the evening progressed, gaps gradually began to appear in the cloud cover, offering glimpses of the night sky. Eventually, I was able to capture a few really rewarding images.

The next morning, having had very little sleep after my nocturnal photographic activities, it was time to pack up and continue to Tatasberg. There, we settled into log cabins that felt like five-star luxury after the rugged and very basic campsites of the previous two nights.

Although it was still spring, the heat in the Richtersveld was already becoming quite oppressive, and we greatly enjoyed the opportunity to cool off with a swim in the Orange River at Tatasberg. My main photographic objective here was to capture a panoramic image of the Milky Way stretching over the river. I eventually succeeded, although the experience taught me several valuable lessons, and I believe I can further improve on the result if I get another opportunity.

The Richtersveld remains, in my mind, one of the most magical places I have ever visited. Its incredible natural beauty lies in the starkness of the landscape, and in the extraordinary contrast between the arid desert and the life-giving Orange River that flows through it. It can be a playing field for men and their 4x4s, but it is also a place where you can simply sit quietly, take in the magnificent surroundings, and marvel at the wonder of God’s creation.

For a wonderful visual impression of this remarkable place, have a look at Liana’s video on YouTube.

Posted on

Road tripping: Cederberg, Richtersveld & West Coast : Part 2

Link to Part 1 here

Next, we set off for Gannabos, near Nieuwoudtville. The route took us over the Eselbank Pass, a beautiful but challenging drive for which a 4×4 is recommended. Along the way lies the Eselbank Waterfall, with two viewing points. The better of the two is not signposted, but fortunately it was clearly indicated on our Tracks4Africa GPS map, allowing us to find our way to it.

To better appreciate the terrain, look at Liana’s video on YouTube.

The route passed through the rooibos tea plantations between the villages of Eselbank and Wupperthal, before continuing through the Biedouw Valley, renowned for its spectacular annual display of wildflowers. Sadly, this year the season had arrived early and been unusually brief, and we encountered only a few scattered flowers.

I did get to see some more ruins, surrounded by flowers.

Our campsites at Gannabos guest farm were luxurious, with each site having its own very spacious ablution facility and kitchenette area.

Gannabos also boasts the largest quiver tree forest in the world, which we visited for sundowners.

An area closer to our campsite gave me access to do some landscape astrophotography.

With new knowledge and ideas gained from this outing, I would like to return here to improve on these.

After two lovely days at Gannabos, it was time to move on to Hondeklipbaai, where we were booked to spend the night. En route, we came across yet another lovely old ruin.

Our friends were greatly relieved to discover that the accommodation we had booked was considerably better than its name, Honne Pondokkies (literally, “Dog Shacks”), might suggest. As on our previous visit, supper at the Rooi Spinnekop Restaurant did not disappoint. Unfortunately, the heavily overcast conditions put paid to my plans for some astrophotography on the beach and around the lighthouse. I did, however, manage to capture a few late-afternoon images before the clouds rolled in.

Posted on

Road tripping: Cederberg, Richtersveld & West Coast : Part 1

On a trip like this, I usually try to post daily updates, or at least keep them fairly regular. This time, however, I was hampered by a distinct lack of decent internet access. I had expected to be completely cut off from cellphone and internet connectivity in the Richtersveld, but I certainly hadn’t anticipated the poor connectivity we encountered during the rest of the trip. Even when we were in Wi-Fi zones at campsites or accommodation, or when my cellphone showed a full 3G signal, the connection was often so slow and unreliable that posting to my blog was virtually impossible.

As a result, I have decided to write up the trip retrospectively, in a few posts covering the journey as a whole.

This had been a long-anticipated and carefully planned road trip. With the Hilux — it’s not a bakkie — heavily laden, we finally set off. Day 1 involved a fairly long drive from GQ to a farm stay somewhere between Barrydale and Montagu. Rather than taking the busy N2, we opted for the more scenic R62.

I don’t think there can be a more striking illustration of the difference between the Eastern and Western Cape than the point where the R62 crosses from one province into the other. The contrast is almost immediate. The following dashcam photographs were taken less than a kilometre apart:

During our travels, I have found myself developing a growing fascination with the ruins that appear unexpectedly beside the road — remnants of lives, homes and places that have long since slipped into the past.

On Day 2, we met up with our friends in Robertson before continuing on towards the Cederberg. At the summit of Gydo Pass, we were rewarded with this stunning view.

The gravel road through the southern Cederberg region remains one of the most scenic roads in South Africa.

My fascination with ruins next to the road continues.

Camping at Kromrivier Cederberg Park, we spent the following day exploring the surrounding area. A visit to the Stadsaal (Town Hall) Caves was followed by an excursion to Truitjieskraal. Both offered spectacular examples of the distinctive rock formations for which the Cederberg is renowned.

Campsite at Kromrivier

Some more ruins along the way.

Posted on

Road tripping through the Klein Karoo and Overberg

As we set out to visit our children in Cape Town, we decided that, rather than making our customary headlong dash to arrive as quickly as possible, we would turn the journey into an unhurried road trip. It would be an opportunity to explore and appreciate the beautiful corners of our country that we have so often rushed past without stopping.

At Riversdale, we turned inland towards Barrydale, crossing the Garcia Pass, Muiskraal Pass, and Kliphoogte—a route of ever-changing scenery that offered a striking contrast to the coastal landscape we had left behind.

Along the way, we came across beautiful wildflowers in the veld. Naturally, we stopped to photograph them, only to be approached by a concerned local who suspected we were there to steal succulents. Apparently, the area has suffered several such thefts. Once we had reassured him that the only things we were taking were photographs, he wished us well and left us to continue capturing the beauty of the landscape through our lenses.

Barrydale is a quaint little town with plenty of character. After visiting the Barrydale Hand Weavers, we called in at the Joseph Barry Distillery for a brandy tasting. Although their brandy is produced in the Cognac style, it cannot, of course, bear that name. Interestingly, the distillery and the hand weavers share the same premises.

From there, we checked into the Karoo Art Hotel before setting off on foot to explore the town. We stopped to photograph the charming church and made our way to the local bookshop, only to find it closed and securely locked.

The day’s biggest surprise came after supper, when we unexpectedly ran into friends. They were returning home from Cape Town but had been delayed and left later than planned, resulting in an overnight stay in Barrydale. What had begun as an ordinary evening turned into a delightful opportunity to catch up over good conversation.

The following morning began with an invigorating—some might say foolhardy—plunge into a 9°C rock pool in the Tradouw River, a ritual that, according to the hotel owner, he faithfully observes every day. It was certainly an unforgettable way to start the morning.

From Barrydale, we enjoyed a leisurely drive to Cape Town, where we spent several wonderful days with our children.

While in Cape Town, I decided to take advantage of the exceptionally calm conditions to tackle a swim from Robben Island to Blouberg. With the weather providing an almost perfect window of opportunity, it was an opportunity not to be missed.

On our way home, we used the opportunity to explore the Overberg, staying over with a friend in Hermanus.

Posted on

Interrupted Camping Trip: some Astrophotography

Our original plan was to go camping at Anysberg Nature Reserve from 13 to 16 June. However, due to the severe weather over the previous two months and a notice on their website stating that the reserve would be closed until 10 June for repairs and maintenance, we phoned them on 5 June to confirm whether they would be open. We were told that they would probably remain closed for another two weeks, although we would receive an update during the following week. Unwilling to take any chances, we decided to look for an alternative destination. The group eventually agreed on Warmwaterberg Spa.

Unfortunately, I developed a nasty intestinal infection just two days before our departure. On the morning we were due to leave, I felt that I was over the worst of it and starting to improve, so I decided to join the trip anyway.

We arrived in the late afternoon and quickly set up camp in the beautiful campsite. After a relaxed and enjoyable braai, I headed out to find good spots for photographing the stars. It was a perfect, cloudless night, and I managed to capture a few lovely photos.

The next morning we enjoyed lounging in the warm mineral pools, followed by a refreshing plunge into the cold pool — a dramatic contrast from approximately 40 °C to 16 °C.

That evening the sky was overcast, ruling out any chance of astrophotography. Unfortunately, my intestinal infection flared up again, forcing us to cut the trip short and head home early the following morning. The drive back took us through stunning landscapes, but I was in no condition to take photographs. I will definitely have to return another time.

Posted on

Pemba Island Diving: Day 6, last day of diving and disaster averted

I’m still not entirely sure how it happened, but somehow saltwater found its way into the battery compartment of my strobe. I only discovered it the previous afternoon while preparing my camera gear for the next day’s shoot. Thankfully, Mudy stepped in to help me carefully clean it out. After that, I left it to dry overnight and checked it again first thing in the morning. The moment I inserted the batteries and the strobe powered up normally, I let out an enormous sigh of relief.

After this the morning initially proceeded in the usual way, until we got on the dive boat and one of the engines refused to start. Since it was our final day of diving, Michael had planned to take us to a more distant and rewarding site. With the large boat fully loaded with divers, however, running on a single engine made the longer trip impractical. After a quick discussion, we transferred to the smaller boat for the extended journey, while the rest of the group remained on the larger vessel and headed to a nearer site.

The longer journey proved more than worthwhile. We were rewarded with some breathtaking corals —vivid, intricate, and almost impossible to capture fully in still photographs, especially with a macro setup. Liana’s video (watch in 4K if possible) comes closer to conveying the sheer spectacle, yet even it falls short of the experience in person. With stronger video lighting, perhaps one could come nearer to revealing the true magnificence of that underwater world in full colour. **

The experience was further enhanced by an abundance of fish life.

We saw several geometric moray eels, apparently very common, although I can’t remember having seen one before.

Another bright pink Leaf scorpionfish was lying in ambush, waiting for prey to appear.

A Freckled Hawkfish and an Arc Eye Hawkfish were also perching on the corals, waiting to pounce on passing prey.

At a distance the Variable Thorny Oyster looked like some gap-toothed monster.

Nudibranchs and flatworms, despite their vibrant colours, can be difficult to spot due to their small size.

The shrimp seemed almost as curious about us as we were about them and I had do keep backing away to get one in focus.

After another afternoon of photo and video processing in the comfort of our air conditioned room, we sat down to another superb dinner to end our time at Afro Divers .

**Just a little footnote for the non-divers: colours disappear quickly as you dive deeper, red being first to go, until eventually only blue remains. The only way to see the true colours of the corals at depth, is to use a strong torch, video light, or for photos a strobe.

Posted on

Pemba Island Diving: Day 5, getting better with the cameras

As our confidence in underwater photography and videography grew, we increasingly looked forward to each day’s dives. The morning routine—early coffee, breakfast, and gearing up—had become second nature.

This day, the dive center was noticeably busier than before, dispatching two boats full of divers. For our first dive, Mudy guided us once again. On the second, Michael suggested we dive with him so he could provide more hands-on help with my camera settings.

Both dives were outstanding, filled with incredible sights and encounters. We spotted some impressive large fish in deeper water, though I didn’t attempt to photograph them—I’d opted for the macro lens that day, having found it delivered far better results than the wide-angle.

Almost immediately after descending, we came across a stunning leaf fish.

This was soon followed by a frogfish, so well camouflaged that I would definitely not have seen it if Mudy had not pointed it out.

We were entertained by damselfish swimming around in the coral.

We saw several lionfish on both dives,

as well as a few nudibranchs.

A mature male ribbon eel, recognisable by its bright blue colour, poked its head out at us as we were passing its burrow.

A red scorpionfish was closely followed by a Tasseled scorpionfish, which I struggeld to see initially, even after it was pointed out to me.

Toward the end of the second dive we saw multiple Black spotted pufferfish, more Sailor’s eyeballs and finally some anemonefish nestled within their host sea anemone.

During our second dive, an especially feisty little damselfish decided to harass Liana and her GoPro, repeatedly charging in with surprising bravado. It was a perfect reminder of those tiny dogs that bark fiercely at the world, utterly convinced they’re far bigger than they actually are.

That afternoon was devoted to sorting through a wealth of photos and videos from the dives, editing them in the welcome comfort of our air-conditioned room at Afro Divers Lodge.

The internet connection proved frustratingly inconsistent—strong and reliable one moment, vanishing entirely the next—which forced me to delay posting my blog update until the following morning.

Dinner, however, more than made up for any earlier frustrations: a special Saturday barbecue featuring perfectly grilled marlin, tender octopus, and succulent chicken, accompanied by an array of delicious side dishes. It ranks among the finest meals we’ve enjoyed at any of the diving and wildlife lodges we’ve visited in recent years.

Posted on

Pemba Island Diving: Day 4, Diving and More

This will be a short post after a very long day. As usual, we started with coffee and a simple breakfast—fresh fruit for Liana, pancakes for me. Then it was straight to the water for diving.

We were excited to put Michael’s advice from the day before into practice. The dives themselves were beautiful, even if the photographic opportunities proved a bit elusive. On the first dive we spotted a large turtle, but it stayed just out of ideal camera range. Later, a magnificent ray rested motionless on the sand—another breathtaking moment, though not quite the perfect shot.

Sometimes the camera has to take a backseat so you can simply be present and soak in the wonder of it all.

Still, I did capture a few decent photos, and I can already feel Michael’s tips making a real difference. Progress, one dive at a time.

Once again, try to watch Liana’s video in 4K or at least HD and remember that you can enlarge any of the photos by clicking on them.

I’d been contemplating a long open-water swim along the Pemba coast ever since we booked this trip—and today was the day.

The original plan was to swim from Afro Divers to The Aiyana, roughly 4.5 km along Pemba’s stunning northern coast. But I misjudged the tide and currents. Instead of an easy glide, I spent the entire swim battling a relentless head current. I eventually called it quits about 500 m short, finishing at Pemba Paradise—exhausted but satisfied.

The combination of fighting the current and the almost absurdly warm 31°C sea temperature turned what should have been a relaxing cruise into a proper test of endurance. My arms felt like lead by the end, yet there was something rewarding about pushing through in such a beautiful setting.

The combination of exhaustion from the day’s activities and suddenly slow internet connection called for an early night for me, although Liana remained up till late to finish her video.

Posted on

Pemba Island Diving: Day 3, slowly finding our way with the cameras

By this point, we had settled comfortably into our daily rhythm: early-morning coffee, followed by a light breakfast of pancakes, before preparing for the day’s diving.

Our first dive site of the morning was Deep Freeze, located on the south side of the channel separating Njao Island from Fundo Island. You don’t need to descend very deep to encounter an impressive variety of marine life.

After the challenges of the previous day, we were gradually improving our handling of the cameras. I had added 2 kg of weight to offset the buoyancy of my camera rig and was now diving with 5 kg total—despite forgoing a wetsuit. The water temperature remained steady and wonderfully comfortable at 28°C. Camera settings and focus continued to test us; many shots ended up out of focus, overexposed, or underexposed. Still, there was some progress compared to the day before, and I managed to capture several usable images. Liana, meanwhile, was gradually mastering her GoPro for video. At this rate, we might just have everything dialed in—right about the time we head home.

Our first encounter of the morning was an eel, carefully peeking out as we went past.

We met a school of pygmy sweepers in a swim-through.

Next up a Guineafowl pufferfish and a Black spotted pufferfish

For some reason, I remain fascinated by the Sailor’s eyeballs (bubble algae) which are some of the largest single celled organisms in the world.

I would not have seen the well camouflaged frogfish, had our dive guide not pointed it out to me.

A bright yellow nudibranch was unfortunately facing away from us, but still makes for a colourful picture

As we were heading towards the surface at the end of the dive, we encountered a large school of parrotfish. Watch the end of Liana’s video to see their mesmerising movements.

Watch the video in 4K if you can and also remember that you can click on any of the photos to see a full size version of it.

After our customary surface interval—spent relaxing on one of the island’s many small, pristine beaches—our second dive of the day took us to Mandela Wall.

This striking site, situated just outside the gap between Fundo Island and Njao Island, offered another captivating wall dive rich with healthy corals, vibrant marine life, and the characteristic clear waters of the region.

The remainder of the day passed in leisurely fashion. We lounged around the lodge, sorting through photos and videos from the morning’s dives while simply unwinding and enjoying the relaxed pace.

As we sipped our sundowners, Michael shared some excellent tips on underwater photography—advice we are eager to put into practice tomorrow.

Dinner was outstanding, featuring beautifully fresh fish as the main course. Afterward, we retired to our room early, resting up and recharging for another full day of diving ahead.